Well run dining pub with good enterprising food and pretty garden
The good pub guide review
With its impressive choice of food, first class service and fine choice of drinks, it is easy to see why readers enjoy this pub so much. There are also some fine architectural features that are really worth looking at. The L-shaped bar has bentwood stools on floor tiles, ornate cast-iron pillars, a woodburning stove and (under bowler-hatted lampshades over the counter) Adnams Southwold and Brewsters Hophead on handpump, 25 fairly priced wines by the glass including champagne, and farm cider. There are also three porcelain handpumps from the era of the legendarily autocratic regime of the Wagner-loving former owner Kim Tickell. Tables in the dining room vary from sturdy to massive, with leather-cushioned bentwood and other dining chairs and one dark pew, and fresh minimalist décor in palest buff. This opens into an even lighter limestone-floored conservatory area, partly divided by a very high-backed ribbed-leather banquette. A side terrace has comfortable tables, and the secluded garden beyond has pergolas and a pond. Sister pubs are the Cock in Hemingford Grey, Crown & Punchbowl at Horningsea and Three Horseshoes in Madingley (all in Cambridgeshire).
The good pub guide food review
Interesting, up-to-date food includes scallops with white bean purée, black pudding and red salsa, salad bowl of bulgar wheat, peas, radish, herbs and chickpeas with tahini and lemon dressing, goats cheese arancini with arrabiata sauce, haggis fritters with dijon mayonnaise, garlic-roasted butternut squash with shaved fennel, black olives and almonds, herb-crusted hake fillet with lemon roast potatoes and lemongrass butter, slow-cooked beef with dauphinoise potatoes and juniper sauce, and puddings such as peanut butter parfait with Malteser cookie crumb, whipped yoghurt and pickled strawberries, and chocolate pot with kirsch-soaked cherries and vanilla ice-cream; they also offer a two- and three-course set weekday lunch.
Tickell Arms, 1 North Road, Whittlesford, Cambridge, Cambridgeshire, CB22 4NZ
Weekdays: 12-3, 6-11