Pig in the City

I first started thinking about rearing our own pigs about nine months ago. I was talking to a friend of mine, Jamie Williams, who runs Locks Drove Farm in north west Hampshire. Initially we were talking about him supplying all the Renaissance Pubs with free range chicken – that’s his main business. In the end, he agreed that if we bought some piglets, he’d raise them and we’d watch them grow together.

We went for a Tamworth / Kune Kune cross. It produces an excellent natured pig ideal for hog roasts, perfect for butchery with a good fat layer and a superb consistency of flavour.

On slaughter day, chefs from all of our pubs left South West London and headed to Overton. We drove to Laverstoke Farm, one of the most humane abattoirs in Europe – small, lots of natural light, and the animals are subjected to the least amount of pain. I still felt pretty sad when I went inside though – it dawned on me that I had been feeding these pigs for nine months, watching them play in the mud. It was finally time to say goodbye.

Afterwards we headed back to Locks Drove Farm and spent an hour or so watching Simon, the butcher break down half a pig into all the various cuts - leg, shoulder, belly, cutlet, rolled loin. It was great to see all the different techniques. The chefs were totally enthused, asking questions about how to make the best sausages and black pudding – but Simon wouldn’t give away his special recipe!

Rearing our own animals is a great idea in terms of assuring traceability and quality, and it’s an ideal way to get chefs and managers more involved and totally aware of the processes that take place before meat is delivered to them.

The pigs were sold in the pubs the following weekend – diners enjoyed and pork belly with crushed Ratte potatoes and salsa verde at The Stonhouse; Asian sticky pork salad with honey and ginger at The Avalon; and pig's head and black pudding terrine with piccalilli. all went down incredibly well. We’ve already bought five more and they are joining our Belted Galloway and Dexter cows.

For more information visit www.renaissancepubs.co.uk